Why Should You Choose A Princess-Cut Diamond For Your New Diamond Ring?

The princess-cut is a name given to several styles of cut that all share the same square shape. It is the second most popular diamond cut and is often referred to as the most popular of the Fancy Shape diamonds.
Princess-cut diamonds are especially popular as the centre stone in engagement rings. It has almost the same brilliance as a round-cut stone (the brightest of all diamond cuts) at a lower cost.
The technical name for the princess-cut is ‘square modified brilliant’. The type was devised in the 1960s. The current version of the princess-cut was developed in 1980 by Betazel Ambar and Israel Itzkowitz.
The Shape Of A Princess-Cut Diamond
The princess-cut is a modified version of the popular round-cut. Looking at the cut stone from the top down, a princess-cut diamond is square. From the side, the diamond will look similar to a round-cut, being like a pyramid. When you look into the gem from above, an X-shape can be seen.
Princess-cut diamonds have 58 facets, the same number of facets as a round-cut diamond which gives the square princess-cut almost the same degree of sparkle and brilliance as round cuts.
Many princess-cut diamond buyers love the crushed ice effect from the large number of facets on the pavilion (the lower part of the gem).

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Diamond ShapeLength/Width RatioTable %Depth %
Princess-Cut1 to 1.0364% – 75%64% – 74%
Recommended ratios for the table and depth of princess-cut stones to maximise the diamond’s brilliance.

A Princess Diamond Can Be Economical

Because the princess-cut is square, as seen in its setting, it looks larger than a round-cut diamond. A ring with such a stone will look more impressive than a round-cut stone of the same weight. The high cost of a round-cut stone comes mainly from the amount of waste that the cut demands. A square-cut princess is much more economical. The amount of waste from a round-cut is over 50%. Less than 20% is lost from a princess cut diamond, resulting in a significantly lower manufacturing cost and much better value for money for jewellery buyers.

A Diamond’s Size Can Be An Illusion

Princess-cut diamonds look larger than round cut diamonds of the same weight, especially when mounted into a ring. The looks are an optical illusion!

A princess-cut’s crown, the area of the widest part of the gem, is approximately 10% smaller than is found on a round cut gem of the same weight. The diamond appears to be larger because of the square shape. The corners give the illusion that the diamond is bigger because the corner to corner measurement is around 15% larger than the round-cut gem’s diameter.

Square Or Rectangular – Both Are Princesses!

Not all princess-cut diamonds are square; they can be cut in a rectangle. A rectangular princess-cut with a length to width ratio greater than 1.10 also tends to look larger than a square and is also slightly less expensive than a strict square diamond.

Points To Look Out For When Choosing A Princess-Cut Diamond

  1. When you buy a ring with a princess-cut diamond, make sure that the setting has prongs to protect each of the four corners because this is the part of the diamond most at risk from chipping.
  2. The corners of the diamond are the closest to the outside of the rough gem. So it is the most likely place to see flaws such as inclusions or extra facets. The prongs of the setting will tend to conceal these from view. Most other square cuts, such as radiant or emerald-cut, have cropped corners, which completely avoids the problem.
  3. If you are buying a diamond from one of the lower colour grades, check the corners to ensure that the visible colour is acceptable to you. The narrowness of the girdle around the diamond makes the off-white colour more visible here.
  4. The square princess-cut’s brilliance can be more forgiving of diamonds of lower clarity than other, less brilliant, cuts.
  5. The princess-cut is ideal for eternity rings because the stones’ square shape makes it possible to set the diamonds precisely adjacent to each other with no gaps. Be cautious of a ring with adjacent stones that have gaps; there might be issues with the consistency of the cutting between the diamonds.
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The princess-cut is an excellent choice for jewellery, particularly rings, because it gives almost all the brilliance and sparkle of a round-cut diamond. At the same time, it costs less to buy, looks larger, carat for carat, and can even make some quality issues less visible. A great all-around choice for a fine diamond engagement ring, earrings, and pendants will impress all who own or see them.

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Andrew Wilson is a seasoned writer specializing in the jewellery industry and news. His career began in the newspaper industry, where he honed his reporting skills and developed a keen eye for detail, laying the foundation for his meticulous research in later writing endeavors. Transitioning into marketing, Wilson gained valuable insights into consumer behavior and market trends, enriching his understanding of the jewellery industry when he embraced full-time writing about 15 years ago. In 2019, he discovered a passion for jewellery writing, focusing on market trends and innovative designs. A member of the International Gem Society, Andrew's work is characterized by thorough research and accuracy, offering comprehensive insights into the jewellery world. He occasionally adopts pseudonyms to cater to different audiences and business needs, serving a diverse clientele, including numerous jewellery businesses. Recognized for his unique blend of industry knowledge, research prowess, and engaging writing style, Wilson is dedicated to demystifying the jewellery industry, making it more accessible and understandable to both enthusiasts and professionals.